Since I first saw the Matukas I fell in love with its intelligent design. The first ones were tied with heron feathers, but when those were difficult to obtain, anglers started using hen, rooster and other kinds of feathers. It’s not easy to improve an traditional Matuka, in fact each variant work View more...Since I first saw the Matukas I fell in love with its intelligent design. The first ones were tied with heron feathers, but when those were difficult to obtain, anglers started using hen, rooster and other kinds of feathers. It’s not easy to improve an traditional Matuka, in fact each variant works best in certain situations. So I carry collar-less Matukas, other with collar, long ones, short ones, hen and rooster, as well as the new M.M.Double Tukas.A while ago I decided to tie Matukas on plastic or metal tubes, after trying the Peacock fly in Tierra del Fuego, which is like a Matuka made with peacock swords and a golden body. This new Matuka comes from experimenting to achieve a better belly silhouette. I saw René Harrop’s Matukas with marabou bellies so I tried rooster and hen feathers tied as you can see here. It worked very well and it allows us to improve the silhouette without losing the transparency, which suggests a body and fins of the minnow, especially if we use different colors of feathers.The first Double Matukas were tied on Partridge’s Bartlett salmon hooks, I still use them but the tubes are much more versatile. The broad holographic tinsel body adds the necessary flash of the scales, which sometimes determines the strike, as well as the color combination on the wing and belly. Today’s chartreuse one is an attractor to use in cold or discolored waters. I use more natural colors to imitate rainbow, perch and other minnows in normal temperature and clarity of waters.
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List of materials
MATERIALSPlastic, aluminum or copper tube.Thread: black, 8/0.BUTT: Dubbing, color hot pink of antron or similar, as bright as possible.BODY: silver or gold, broad holographic tinsel.RIBBING: copper wire of .25 mm, color blue.SUPERIOR WING: 2 to 4 saddle feathers of grizzly rooster, dyed color chartreuse.BELLY 2: rooster saddle feathers, white.COLLAR: guinea hen feather, color chartreuse.CHEEKS: Jungle Cock.HEAD: black thread, with a UV resin layer. View more...MATERIALSPlastic, aluminum or copper tube.Thread: black, 8/0.BUTT: Dubbing, color hot pink of antron or similar, as bright as possible.BODY: silver or gold, broad holographic tinsel.RIBBING: copper wire of .25 mm, color blue.SUPERIOR WING: 2 to 4 saddle feathers of grizzly rooster, dyed color chartreuse.BELLY 2: rooster saddle feathers, white.COLLAR: guinea hen feather, color chartreuse.CHEEKS: Jungle Cock.HEAD: black thread, with a UV resin layer.
Steps
Step 1
Tie the copper wire tightly, from the front to the back.
Step 2
Use dubbing -color hot pink- to form a butt. I use two layers of dubbing, but not too bulky for it would raise the wing.
Step 3
Tie the tinsel at the front, go back. The to the front and tie.
Step 4
Prepare the feathers, take off the fibers from the side we’ll place on the hook.
Step 5
Make the ribbing holding the wing and belly. Use a needle for help between the feather fibers. Tie when reaching the head. Eliminate the tip from the belly.
Step 6
Make a collar with 3 to 5 turns with the guinea hen feather. The fibers shouldn’t cover the white belly.
Step 7
Place the jungle cock and finish with a conic, short, tidy head. The conic shape of the neck and the head should be sized harmoniously.
Step 8
Finished M.M. Double Tuka.
